The Louvre

So, you want to visit the Louvre huh? Do you have a lifetime available?

We decided to visit the Louvre while in Paris…You kind of have to right? We were only in Paris for 2 full days and there was so very much to see that we had to prioritize how we wanted to spend our valuable time there. You should immediately go to flynnandollie.com and read the Grimmesque fairy tale (linked in the side bar as The Chronicle) for a realistic look at our trip to Paris.

Well, the Louvre is open late on Wednesday evenings so we decided that would give us the best opportunity to see some of it. After a day spent sight seeing on the Big bus, we dropped off at the Louvre entrance, grabbed some light dinner and headed inside.

There is security with a metal detector and then the lines to get tickets. Like any museum here, they have discounts for locals and students available so check into them to see if you qualify. Then off to the actual entrance where the guy turns me around and points out the self lock storage area (they don’t allow umbrellas with pointy tips). Ditching the loaner umbrella, we were granted entrance and head off to The Greek sculpture area. A side note; what kind of selfish prick thinks they have the right to damage or ruin a piece of history? I’m going to do a rant one day here.

As we climb the wide palatial steps of the once palace which holds all of the national treasures we realize the scope of our undertaking. Entering into the sculpture area and seeing the many students (old and young) with sketch pads in hand reminds me of any movie that includes the Louvre as a backdrop. People come from all over the world to sketch and contemplate the works within these walls. Some lie on the floor, other rooms have cushioned seats in which to sit and view the works. There is no sense of hurry to the viewers with the exception of yours truly. I take a little too long looking at a particular piece in the exhibit and turn around to find E missing often. I look around in despair and realize that if I have any chance to actually look at the museum I need to retire immediately and find a way to live for the rest of my life in the museum without ever taking time to eat or drink or do anything that involves not looking at exhibits ever again! I understand now why there are courses of study in universities all over the world that focus on the artworks in the Louvre and that upon graduation these students then apply for access to the Louvre to study forever more. I’m not sure a lifetime is long enough!

As I look from the sculptures of Artemis/Diana, the Three Graces, Dionysius to The Venus De Milo I realize that I have just entered the second room of the first exhibit we have walked into. I become a little manic and despair of seeing anything, OMG, why didn’t I come here as a young scholar and do nothing but study? Why am I only here for a few hours during a two day visit instead of finding a way to live here for months and study these works? After a few minutes of panic, I settle down and get on with seeing what I can see.

If I seem to be a little enamored with the sculptures, bear in mind that I was exposed all my life to the skills of an internationally collected sculptor of animals and people. I do know how an animal is supposed to look, how a human body should move and how clothing should flow. I always claim that I have no artistic abilities but I can indeed professionally critique those things after about 40 years of experiencing them in professional settings and observing other judges looking at and rating them. My artist is also a master of other media and so I did plan to spend some time in the painting areas. Alas, the Mona Lisa and her attendant companions are not available at this time.

I am sure you have seen the photographs of these marble sculptures from antiquity, perhaps you have even seen them in person? Can you imagine the skill it takes to depict shadow and muscle tone into the heart of stone? The feeling of suppleness in the muscles and curves of the bodies is almost otherworldly. The flow of clothing drapes as though it is truly cloth and has just been put on a living body. The flow of facial muscles, hands that grip with muscle and sinew, buttocks that have definition, legs with depth to the form. Knuckles that show dimples, ankles that turn beautifully… Did you know that the latest research shows that the pristine marble sculptures were originally painted? There has been evidence of remaining colors on many unearthed sculptures that lays to rest the early notions of the “old masters” only wanting their sculptures to be in pristine marble (read some of the research, pretty interesting).

So, on to our tour…
I am enthralled with the Greek sculpture area; the muscling of the animals, the flow of the garments, the details in feet and ankles, lovely swell of breasts, muscled glutes, the chiseled chests of men, detailed penises and pubic hair, details of flowing locks of hair, beards, sandal construction, the looks on faces and in eyes, the dimples of cheeks…
Miniatures of pieces…are they models for larger pieces or just small collectibles made for customers of the day who didn’t have room for the monolithic sizes of larger examples? Beautifully constructed with the same precision and attention to detail as any of their full size brethren. Are they small so that the sculptor could carry them about and work on them wherever they went as opposed to being stuck in a studio all the time?

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We pass from the Greek sculptures to the early French painters. One thing seems to be a theme and that is no one ever smiled in the 1700’s. Men were stern and women were all demure/bordering on what looks like tears. Children were stiff and all the animals were dying or in the process of killing…boy, they did some seriously dark work! There was some very serious use of vibrant colors and plays with shadows and interesting subject studies. As we know, many of the commissions made of artists in the 16th through the 19th centuries were by clergy (usually Catholic) so there are many religious based paintings. Some totally catch you and draw you into the painting and some just aren’t my cup of tea. One such is the Temptation of Christ from 1854 by Ary Scheffer. I know it is considered a great painting but I find it falling flat in my eye.

Needless to say, we did not hit even 1/10th of this museum and I wonder if we will ever be back to see more. We left the Louvre under cover of a dark and stormy night and spilled into the streets of Paris to find our way home to the hotel Baume. (read all about this adventure on the F&O Chronicle site).

The Louvre is filled with artifacts for everyone to see. In retrospect, you should do some research before going and set an itinerary with must see displays. It is very easy to “squirrel” once inside the doors of the museum where the exhibits pull you in all different directions. Plan on being on your feet for long periods of time so comfortable shoes and clothing is a must. There are plenty of seats in viewing areas for paintings and there seemed to be no issue with folks sitting on the floors.

I will leave you with a gallery of a smattering of the sights we saw within the walls.

Remember, get out there and explore!

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